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Home arrow Articles arrow Weekly arrow Easy Openings for Beginners - Sanrensei - 2
Easy Openings for Beginners - Sanrensei - 2 Print E-mail

By Rob van Zeijst,

Published in : Articles, Weekly Articles


When picking up a new hobby or engaging in a different field like swimming, learning a language, manipulating a computer, or even having a conversation with someone new, you need to know the basics of the game. Sure, throwing yourself in the deep end is one technique, but I don’t recommend it because probably you won’t enjoy it and there is a great chance you will never get to the next stage. At the other end of the spectrum, there are those who want to learn everything from books. Of course, you can learn a great deal from books that explain the rules along with some of the basics, but no matter how much information they contain, you won’t be able to improve much unless you get your feet wet. In other words, you have to actually do it.
In Go, the 19 x 19 board is huge in comparison to many other games, and if you are a beginner it probably looks like a landing field for airplanes and you might even develop some symptoms of agoraphobia. I recommend you learn a few openings—this will give you familiarity with the position and the opportunity to concentrate on one thing at a time. The sanrensei opening lends itself well to that purpose. If you are a beginner you are probably obsessed with territory. However, the purpose of the sanrensei strategy doesn’t lie there. Rather than territory, this strategy emphasizes influence and invites an invasion by the opponent.
 
Diagram 1
002-01.jpg
Diagram 1
Last week, we talked about how to set up the sanrensei position with 1, 3, and 5, and about the various responses to White 6. This week, we will look at Black 7 and subsequent follow-ups. In response to 6, locally Black can play at A, a common move if Black 5 is absent. Even if Black 5 is already in place, playing at A is possible. However, I feel this is inconsistent with the philosophy behind the sanrensei of building a huge moyo. In general, moves on the third line (like A) are territory oriented, while the fourth line is for building influence.
White will now usually play at 8 or B to back up his stone at 6. Black has the choice between playing at 9, at C, or around D. There is actually a subtle difference between a White stone at 8 or at B and this has an impact on our choices here. However, this goes beyond the scope of this week’s discussion. We will return to it at a later stage, during the Kobayashi fuseki in this series on openings. Before continuing from move 9, let’s first explore Black C and D.
Diagram 2
002-02.jpg
Diagram 2
After White 8, if Black decides to play in the top left, he can choose between 9 and 17. Black 17 is a high-level move which we will discuss as part of the Kobayashi fuseki. For now, we will restrict ourselves to 9. White will usually pincer at or near B, or else play at 10. If White had played 8 at A, then white 10 would create an overconcentrated position. However, with 8 in place, White builds up a thick position in the top left, with a strong claim to the territory at the top. After 18, Black can defend his stones in the top left, or he can leave them as they are and switch to 19 or thereabouts. The only issue Black really has to keep in mind is that any stones in the top left should not become a weak group. In this position a weak black group anywhere on the left side, at the top, or at the bottom means the moyo on the right will suffer.
 
Diagram 3
002-03.jpg
Diagram 3
With the marked White stones in place, Black will usually not make a kakari on the third line with 1. There are several reasons for this, both philosophical ones and practical ones. Conceptually, the third line is the line for making territory, but also the line for making life. In contrast, the fourth line is the line of influence as well as making sabaki. That is a technical word denoting light shape, i.e. a shape that is flexible and can easily run away. In practical terms that means Black 1 is slow and doesn’t have a lot of flexibility towards the center. One joseki is the sequence shown. Arguably, the choice here is self-serving, but you can see that the marked White stones are in just the right place.
 
Diagram 4
002-04.jpg
Diagram 4
Black can play a keima kakari at 9, and if White tamely answers at 10 then Black obtains an ideal position with 11. It is far more likely that White will resist and pincer at A or B. This will result in a fight that is not necessarily bad for Black. If you like fighting, give it a try sometime. But if you like to keep it simple, it is better to play as in Diagram 5.
 
Diagram 5
002-05.jpg
Diagram 5
As explained, Black 9 is the easy move. In order not to suffer the same result as in the previous diagram, White could extend to 10. Black could view this exchange as a kikashi and switch to the top left. After the moves through 20, Black 21 offers some protection for this group, but now White will invade. In this shape, 22 is the right point for invading. Black 23 prevents White from connecting underneath, so White moves out into the open with 24. Since White has jumped out to the center farther than Black, technically he has the initiative. This is true all the more because Black needs to defend around A, allowing White to cap in the center around B.
 
Diagram 6
002-06.jpg
Diagram 6
The way to defend is very interesting. Black 13 defends the corner and the right side while defending indirectly against the invasion. However, this requires a bit of preparation: Black should first exchange 11 for 12. When White does invade at 14, as you can see, Black seizes the initiative with 15 and 17. Now compare this result to the one in Diagram 4: even if White moves out into the center, Black has already defended at 13, so he can attack strongly in the center.
 
Diagram 7
002-07.jpg
Diagram 7
You could argue that Black 13 gives even more protection against the invasion. However, now White will invade on the right. Common invasion points to do so are A, B, and C. Although this is not an immediate threat, White is also aiming at cutting at D. In the end, Black 13 is too direct as a defense and in that sense is lopsided.
Pros try to avoid such one-dimensional moves, but I think you should experiment with both moves until you can muster the confidence to play moves that defend indirectly.

This week I can offer the same advice: try this strategy in a number of games, irrespective of the outcome. Familiarize yourself fully with one pattern. This will give you direction and self-confidence. It will also serve you well in understanding the next pattern. Once you know a few patterns, you will have reference points you can use for comparing and evaluating positions you haven’t encountered yet.

Next week, we will backtrack a bit and look at an alternative for Black 7, namely pincering White 6.

   

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Errata

By: Rob van Zeijst (Registered) on 08-09-2007 16:02

Errata

By: Rob van Zeijst (Registered ) on 08-09-2007 16:02

Something went wrong with the Diagram at some stage. We will correct it ASAP.

 

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errata

By: Dave Whipp (Registered) on 06-09-2007 18:42

errata

By: Dave Whipp (Registered ) on 06-09-2007 18:42

I think there're some letters missing from diagram 1. I can guess where A is -- and maybe B -- but C and D are less clear

 

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