When the difference in strength between two players is great, the weaker player is given the maximum handicap of nine stones. The minimum handicap is two stones. Other systems are available to compensate for differences in strength. One commonly used method is to give komi, or points, in the form of prisoners. For example, the players can agree to set the komi at 50 points, meaning that White will have to accumulate 50 points or more in territory and captured stones than Black. According to most rules, White usually is given the victory in the event of a draw. The advantage of this type of handicap is that the Black player becomes familiar with regular fuseki styles, or openings.
Another handicap method, called the Chinese handicap, allows Black to place his handicap stones anywhere he wants. Obviously, this has huge advantages for Black, since he can create any formation he wants.
I recommend that players use all of these handicap methods to practice their favorite openings and get used to different situations. However, in most handicap tournaments, the official method is still used, so we should study that aspect of the game. A few months ago, we looked at nine-stone handicap strategies. Although the open center looks vast, an eight-stone handicap is similar to a nine-stone handicap, so we will skip discussion of it. Instead, let's look at the next level, the seven-stone handicap.
7-stone handicap
Diagram 1: Since there are no black stones on the points indicated by the crosses, strategy is slightly different from a nine-stone handicap. White will usually play at 2 and try to develop the lower side. Black has many options now. He can reply with A or B--the most conventional answers--or at C, D or E to develop the center, or at F or G to prevent White from sliding into the corner.
Diagram 2: If you think the suggestions in Diagram 1 are a little passive and only serve to defend the marked stone, here are some alternatives. There is nothing wrong with just replying when you're playing with a seven-stone handicap, but if you want to counterattack, the pincers A, B and C are strong moves. Even the pincer at D, which was rarely used in the past, has now been added to the list of standard moves.
Diagram 3: Let's first look at a conventional way of playing. If Black answers with 3, White may want to play at 4. Using the marked stone on Tengen, of course, it is possible now to pincer around A of 6 and start a fight. It is surprising how many Black players feel the need to start a fight because they feel they cannot yield too much to White's aims. However, going one move ahead, after exchanging black 5 for white 6, Black can play a magnificent move at 7. That should be ample compensation for White's lower side. The upper side now looks like a nine-stone handicap game and you can refer to earlier lessons to deal with this situation.
This highlights one important concept in handicap go: Don't follow your opponent around, but develop your own territory or moyo (sphere of influence).
Diagram 4: If you like a battle, of course, you can prevent White from monopolizing the whole lower side by invading, for example, at 5. Be prepared for a nasty attack, though. White may jump to 6, then pincer at 8, which is also an extension from 2. In response, black 9 seems reasonable. White 10 threatens to invade at 11 next. Preventing that by playing at 11 himself, Black sets the scene for a battle in the center. The marked stone should be helpful in this event. So when White plays at 12, where should Black play next? Should he play at A, B or C? To answer, keep the following concept in mind: You don't have to play brilliant moves as long as you don't make big mistakes.
Diagram 5: Let's start with the worst move--C. That is black 1, which was obviously played to make a base and eyes for his group. The moves through 7 seem logical in that light. White will then strengthen his group with 8 and wait for a chance to play at A, followed by black B, white C, black D (to make unconditional life), and white E, taking away the lower right corner. The game is not over, but the result is not very good for Black. The concept here is: When you have a weak group, do not try to make eyes in a small space. Instead, try to spread to the center.
Diagram 6: What about A? Before playing that move, Black should first play at 1, then play 3 (A in Diagram 4)--this is a common technique. The moves through 8 will follow. But black 9 and 11 are strong moves. If White cuts with A, followed by black B and white C, black D will lead to the capture of the white stones around 10. Try it for yourself. Remember this concept: Rule by dividing. Cutting makes your opponent weaker, which increases the relative strength of your weak group.
Diagram 7: The last candidate was B in Diagram 4, which is black 1 here. Should Black be worried about the cutting sequence of white 2, 4 and 6? If White reads the board correctly, he will foresee the black 7 through 11 sequence, and then push the issue with 13 and 15 to finally close off the left corner with 17. Black will discover he gave away two stones and about 15 points. In exchange, he got the marked stone and maybe 40 points in that area. On top of that, the exchange black A for white B is Black's privilege, so his territory on the right amounts to more than 20 points. In other words, Black is doing very well. The concept: Don't panic about every cut, but read it out. Just trying to read two or three moves ahead is enough to steer you in the right direction.
Problem 1: This is a problem from the Hatsuyoron, one of the tsume-go books used by insei (professional students) and pros to improve their board reading ability. The problem: Can Black cut at 1 and capture the marked white stones? If you can work this out in your head, without using stones, you are playing at the professional level. If you can work out the solution using stones, you are still playing at a top amateur level. For weaker players, try to appreciate the complications that can arise even if few stones are involved.